Types of frames

Types of setting for rings, necklaces, bracelets etc.

A diamond can be set in different ways. Depending on the model and design, the type of barrel is already predetermined. Get to know the different types of barrels and take a look at our range.

Zargenfassung

Krappenfassung

Chaton-Fassung

Kanalfassung

Balkenfassung

Eingeriebene Fassung

Pavee Fassung

The frame setting

The frame setting

The diamond lies on a frame (notch) and is framed by precious metal. The socket is open at the bottom, allowing more light to enter.

Modern and elegant

The bezel setting is an old, very labor-intensive goldsmith technique. A strip of precious metal surrounds the diamond on its sides and forms a frame for the stone. On the inner wall of the setting there is another strip of precious metal (frame) that serves as a support for the diamond. The bezel setting is particularly suitable for round cut (brilliant) or oval diamonds.

The advantages of the frame setting

  • The diamond is protected from damage by the border of the precious metal.
  • The frame frame is open at the bottom, which allows more light to enter the frame than with the box frame. As a result, the diamond develops greater radiance and more fire.
  • The precious metal edge makes the diamond appear larger than it actually is.
  • Unevenness in the diamond's girdle can be hidden by the metal strip around the diamond.
  • Particularly suitable for active and sporty people, as the diamond is protected and the setting prevents it from getting caught on clothing or similar items when the hands are heavily active.

The disadvantages of the frame setting

Lower light incidence than with the prong setting. But the split bezel setting also allows light to enter the diamond from the open sides. This optimizes the brilliance and fire of the stone again.

Split frame setting

With the split bezel setting, the precious metal strip that surrounds the diamond is not continuous around the diamond, but is interrupted in two places. This means more of the stone can be seen. The diamond receives increased light through the lower and two side openings. This is a clear advantage of the split bezel setting, because the increased incidence of light means that the diamond has more shine and fire. You can also see more of the diamond. The disadvantage of the split bezel setting is that the diamond is not as well protected from damage as in the full bezel setting.

Rings with bezel settings
Split frame setting
prong setting

The prong setting

The prongs are evenly spaced. Their ends are bent to the stone to hold the diamond in place.

The classic among the frames

The prong setting gets its name from the so-called prongs. The prongs are small strips of precious metal that are spaced evenly around the diamond and form a “basket” in which the gemstone lies. The prong setting is the most commonly used setting worldwide. It is particularly popular with solitaire rings. The flexibility of the prongs makes the setting suitable for all diamond cuts.

Typically a diamond is held by 2 to 6 prongs. The more prongs a setting has, the more securely the diamond will sit. The prong ends are bent to the diamond so that it is securely fixed in the setting. The prongs can be very delicate or wide or almost massive; they can be round, oval or pointed. All of this depends on the design of the piece of jewelry as well as the style of the respective goldsmith.

Development of the prong setting

The prong setting has its origins in the Middle Ages. The prongs were supposed to represent the claws of raptor eagles. For this reason, the prong setting is also called “claw setting”. The prong setting had its big breakthrough with the Tiffany setting from 1886, which provided a setting with 6 prongs. Since then, the prong setting has become increasingly popular, especially for engagement rings.

The advantages of the prong setting

  • Thanks to the maximum incidence of light, the diamond can develop its full radiance.
  • The full size of the diamond is visible.
  • The ring and the diamond are easy to clean because they are barely covered.
  • Prongs in white gold or platinum are barely visible when looking at the diamond. This makes the diamond appear even more alone.

The disadvantages of the prong setting

  • The diamond is exposed and could therefore be damaged more easily. However, the risk with a diamond is negligible because diamonds are known to be the hardest material in the world. Only the girdle is vulnerable - especially if it is very thin.
  • Particularly during sporting activities, the prongs can easily become bent due to getting caught on different materials. It is possible that the diamond is no longer firmly seated in the setting.

V-prong setting

As can be seen from the name, the prongs here come together in a pointed shape like a V. The V-prong setting is often used on diamonds with square edges, such as pear diamonds, princess cut diamonds, or marquise cut diamonds. The prongs grip the diamond at the corner and protect both the diamond from damage and the clothing from sharp edges.

Rings with prong setting
prong setting
chaton version

Chaton version

A combination of bezel and prong setting. The diamond is surrounded by precious metal and held by prongs.

Fantastically timeless

The word “Chaton” comes from French and means “setting”. The chaton version is also called a coronet or arcade version due to its association with an aristocratic crown. It is a combination of the prong setting and the bezel setting, whereby the diamond is surrounded by a delicate strip of precious metal and is also held by prongs (usually 3, 4, 6 or 8). This elegant setting is often used for solitaire jewelry.

Development of the chaton version

The chaton setting used to be one of the most important settings for diamonds. The stone was and still is securely embedded in the setting. The chaton setting, like the frame setting, developed from the box setting. Even today we can still speak of a box in which the diamond is placed. This is then framed by a precious metal strip - just like the frame setting. Finally, prongs were soldered to the metal strips, which further secure the stone. The improved grip makes it possible to set the diamond higher. This means that more of the diamond is visible with the chaton setting compared to the classic bezel setting. In the meantime, the metal strip is often lowered and reduced to such an extent that it comes very close to a pure prong setting.

The advantages of the chaton setting

  • Thanks to the combination of a metal ring and the prongs, the diamond sits absolutely securely.
  • Almost unrestricted visibility of the diamond.
  • The incidence of light with the chaton setting is higher than with the frame setting.
  • The relatively high incidence of light leads to more fire and a stronger play of light on the diamond.

The disadvantages of the chaton setting

  • The incidence of light is higher than with the classic frame setting, but also lower than with the pure prong setting. However, this only applies to a limited extent if the metal strip sits very deep and is thin.
  • The prong setting on the stone can be easily bent, but the additional support of the chaton setting means that the diamond is held in place much better, as the prongs can hardly bend.
Rings with chaton setting
channel version

Channel version

The diamonds are placed directly next to each other without any gaps and are only held on the sides by two long precious metal rails.

Classic and elegant at the same time

The channel setting is characterized by two long, sideways rails made of precious metal. Several diamonds are lined up side by side within both precious metal rails. The precious metal tracks are located on two sides of a diamond, while on the other two sides it touches another diamond, creating a continuous row of diamonds. The channel setting can be designed with or without a main stone. Eternity rings in particular are often made with a channel setting. Most often, brilliant cut diamonds are used for the channel setting, but the princess cut or the emerald and baguette cuts are also popular. Setting diamonds with a channel setting is a little easier and therefore a little cheaper than other shapes. However, the price of fancy shaped diamonds is usually cheaper than brilliants. The price differences often even out.

The advantages of channel mounting

  • Secure hold.
  • Since the diamonds are lined up directly next to each other (without interruption), the impression of continuous brilliance is created.
  • The setting protects the diamonds as no corners or edges are exposed.
  • The surface is completely smooth and this ensures that even more active people cannot get stuck.
  • It has a very calm appearance and can be easily combined with other rings.

The disadvantages of channel version

  • With rings set all around, it is not possible to adjust the ring size later.
  • Due to the side edging, a little less light gets into the stone, which can lose a little bit of brilliance.
beam socket

Beam setting

A variant of the channel version. In the bar setting, small strips of precious metal separate the diamonds from each other.

A game of diamonds and precious metals

The bar setting, which is a variant of the channel setting, is characterized by the alternation of the elements of diamond and precious metal. A diamond is followed by a precious metal strip, which in turn is followed by another diamond. The sides of the gemstones usually remain open. The contemporary bar setting is particularly popular with eternity rings. The bar setting is best suited for brilliant cut, oval cut, princess cut, baguette cut and emerald cut diamonds.

The advantages of the beam frame

  • The diamonds are well protected by this setting and are only slightly exposed.
  • The diamond shines due to the incidence of light on the open sides.
  • The surface of the piece of jewelry is relatively smooth, which means it is unlikely to get stuck.

The disadvantages of the beam frame

  • The top and bottom of the diamonds are exposed.
  • Rough corners found in some designs may limit comfort.
rubbed version

Rubbed version

With the rubbed setting, the diamond is set directly into the material of the piece of jewelry.

Absolute comfort

The engraved bezel setting, which is also called “jewel setting”, refers to the technique of setting gemstones into the jewelry setting. No separate setting is made for the stone. The diamonds are set into indentations on the piece of jewelry and the metal around the diamonds is rubbed firmly over the girdle. The crown of the stone protrudes slightly from the precious metal, so that it can capture light despite the high edge.
For example, the rubbed setting is often used for band rings, which are often used as wedding rings.

The advantages of the rubbed version

  • Smooth surface of the piece of jewelry.
  • Most suitable for small diamonds.
  • Secure hold of the diamonds.
  • Low susceptibility to damage.
  • High wearing comfort.

The disadvantages of the rubbed version

  • Diamonds can only capture a small amount of light.
  • Only the crown of the diamond is visible.
pavee version

Pavee version

Tiny diamonds held by prongs are set close together. Each prong holds several stones.

For maximum sparkle

The term Pavee comes from French and means “paved” in German. In a pavee setting, a large number of mostly small diamonds are set close together so that hardly any precious metal is visible between the diamonds. The individual small stones in a pavee setting are reminiscent of tiny paving stones, hence the name.

The Pavee frame is a special form of rubbed frame. The diamonds are placed in niches and fixed and separated from each other by small prongs that look like beads. These prongs are carved directly from the metal by the setter. In this way there is hardly any precious metal to be seen. As a rule, stones cut in the same shape - ideally baguette cut, emerald cut, oval cut, princess cut or brilliant cut - are used in different sizes in order to be able to use the entire surface if possible.

The advantages of the Pavee frame

  • Concealing unevenness.
  • The many stones next to each other provide a lot of sparkle, even though only small diamonds are used.
  • The price for many small stones is significantly cheaper than for one large diamond.
  • A variation in the color quality can also be deliberately used and thus even more play of colors can be created.

The disadvantages of the Pavee frame

  • Diamonds in a pavee setting wear easily.
  • Since the setting is very complex to produce, the price of jewelry with pavee settings is largely determined by the craftsmanship and less by the material value.

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