Rare cut shapes for diamonds
What shapes are there for diamonds besides the classic cuts?
In addition to the large and popular diamond classics, especially the brilliant, there are a whole range of sophisticated and individual cut variants that are particularly sought after and appreciated by connoisseurs. The so-called old cut is particularly popular.
Diamonds have been processed into particularly valuable jewelry for over two millennia; For at least seven centuries, increasingly complex cutting processes and forms have been developed for this purpose. Over the course of this time, the goal has always been to give the diamond more and more facets and thus higher light output and more fascinating fire. At the same time, the raw crystal of the diamond octahedron should be used efficiently, meaning that as little waste as possible is created in this process. The latter meant that the earliest cuts obviously followed the natural dimensions of the diamond and were therefore based on a square or rectangular floor plan (round stone).
What is the old cut?
The immediate ancestors of the modern brilliant cut are usually referred to as old cut or (old) European cut. The first breakthrough came in the 19th century with the old-cut diamond: it already has 58 facets, but with its rounded corners it usually still gives an idea of the basic square shape of the diamond. Its pavilion, i.e. the lower side of the cut stone, and its crown, i.e. the upper one, are significantly higher than with the modern brilliant cut, but the table is smaller. In contrast to brilliant-cut diamonds, old-cut diamonds almost always have a visible culet.
What do connoisseurs value about the old cut?
It is the charisma that connoisseurs particularly appreciate about old-cut diamonds, in addition to the fact that, due to the better material yield, they often have a noticeably lower price per carat than their modern descendants, the brilliant-cut diamonds. At the same time, an old cut diamond is more “forgiving” of a weaker color than a brilliant, because due to the lower light dispersion it often appears whiter in color than it actually is. All of this has led to a small renaissance of the old-cut diamond; It is not only found in antique pieces of jewelry, but old cut diamonds are also increasingly being integrated back into modern jewelry production.
What other cut variants are there?
- The rose cuts: Developed since the end of the 16th century, they are characterized by a flat base and pyramidal shape with up to 48 facets.
- The Briolette cut: Similar to the Pampel cut, this is an oval or teardrop shape that has the same or approximately the same facets all around.
- The Regent cut: It takes its name and shape from the diamond in the French royal crown, which was long considered the most perfectly cut stone ever. With its 66 facets, its fire is comparable to that of the brilliant - despite its square basic shape.
- The hexagon cut: It is similar to the rose cuts (e.g. Antwerp rose), but is characterized by a particularly pronounced, hexagonal floor plan.
- The special cuts: These include absolute rarities such as “Rising Star”, “Hearts and Arrows” or “Vinci”, which are cut particularly elaborately and with great loss of material in order to achieve a very specific design.
The briolette/ pendulum cut
The briolette or pendulum cut is similar in shape to today's teardrop cut. It was designed in 1476 by the Flemish grinder Lodewyk van Berquem from Bruges. It was specifically intended for pendants and hanging elements in crowns. The shape of the Briolette cut diamonds is based on the Double Dutch Rose cut, but Briolette diamonds are much longer. They have a total of 48 facets and neither a tablet nor a culet.
How has diamond cutting technology developed?
At the turn of the century before last, a technological leap took place: diamonds could be cut and polished much more efficiently and precisely than before using new sawing and polishing processes. In 1919, the physicist Marcel Tolkowsky finally developed the modern brilliant cut based on the old cut, which is characterized, among other things, by a circular floor plan and - in particularly good specimens - the absence of a culet. The light output of these diamonds is significantly higher and the fire is therefore visibly more intense. However, since the brilliant's light transmission has been optimized precisely for this effect, the surface shine of the old European cut diamond is more pronounced, while it appears darker overall. Especially in candlelight, it still shimmers as magically and seductively today as it did back in the day when this was the only artificial light source apart from gas.
Are you interested in diamonds with a rare cut?
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